Anchorage

        If at all possible you should anchor your ropes to a fixed object such as a ‘big’ tree or rock. However, they are rarely available in the right places so we have to create our own anchors. There are two possibilities the 3-2-1 picket and the picket and log anchor. Both are illustrated below, in each case the pickets should be at least 160cms long and put in position with a sledge hammer or large mallet. If the ground is soft they may need to be longer. The pickets should be set in the ground at 60 degrees and the bindings between pickets should always run from the top of one picket to the bottom of the other.

As a rule of thumb
           Pickets should be positioned in the ground approx. 3 times the height from which the main rope leaves the structure. i.e. if the main rope passes over the sheer legs at 3 metres above the ground then the pickets should be set in the ground 9 meters from the base of the sheer legs. It would be normal practice to fix the rope to a log and picket anchor and fix the pulley assembly to  a 3-2-1 picket anchor.

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Tripod Lashing

Tripod Lashing

   This lashing is also known as Gyn lashing Tying: Place an item such as a log on the ground to support the spars. Place one spar with the bottom end facing in one direction on top of the item. Then, place the next spar on top of the item, but with the bottom end facing in the opposite direction. Finally, place the last spar next to the middle spar.

   Then, tie a clove hitch or timber hitch on one spar on either side. Bring the rope either on top or below of the middle spar; then bring the rope either below or above the last spar (if the rope went on top of the middle spar, it goes below the last spar, and if vice-versa, then the opposite is done). Bring the rope back around in the same alternating manner. After three or four turns, start to frap by wrapping the rope around one section of rope between the first and middle spar three or four times. Bring the rope to the other section and repeat. Then, tie a clove hitch on the last spar. To erect the tripod, turn the spars upright. Then move all spars as far away from each other as possible. Bring them closer to adjust the height and stability of the tripod. To improve stability, one may wish to lash spars to each tripod leg in order to support them better.

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Round Lashing

Round Lashing

The round lashing is a type of lashing also known as vertical lashing.

Materials: Two spars, 15 – 20 feet (6.1 m) of rope.
Comments: Vital to the efficiency of this lashing is the tightness of the lashing itself. Use of a lashing stick is advised.
Tying: To tie a round Lashing begin with a clove hitch around both poles, about six inches from the end of one pole. Then, wrap the free end of the rope around both poles parallel, and below, the clove hitch about seven or eight times. End this portion with a clove hitch. Then repeat the process about six inches from the other end of the spar.

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Shear Lashing

Shear Lashing

Shear lashing uses two or three spars or poles, 15 – 20 feet (6.1 m) of rope.

Tying: To tie a shear lashing, begin with a clove hitch around one spar. Then wrap the free end of the rope around both spars about seven or eight times. Make about three fraps around the lashing, and end up with a clove hitch on the second spar.

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Diagonal Lashing

Diagonal Lashing

    Diagonal lashing is a type of lashing used to bind spars or poles together, to prevent racking. It is usually applied to cross-bracing where the poles do not initially touch, but may by used on any poles that cross each other at a 45° to 90° angle. Large, semipermanent structures may be built with a combination of square lashing, which is stronger, and diagonal lashing.Baling twine has sufficient strength for some lashing applications but rope should be used for joining larger poles and where supporting people sized weights.

Diagonal lashing steps :

1. Begin with a timber hitch around the juncture of the two poles.
2. Make three turns in each direction – tightening steadily throughout the turns.
3. Make two frapping turns, tightening the joint as much a possible.
4. To end, make two half hitches
5. Cinch the half hitches into a clove hitch

A lashing stick can be used to safely tighten the joint. Strength will be improved if the first turn is 90° to the timber hitch and if care is taken to lay the rope turns parallel with no crossings.

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Square Lashing

Square Lashing

Square lashing is a type of lashing knot used to bind poles together. Large structures can be built with a combination of square and diagonal lashing, with square lashing generally used on load bearing members and diagonal lashing usually applied to cross bracing. If any gap exists between the poles then diagonal lashing should be used.

Square lashing steps:

1. Begin with a clove hitch on the vertical pole beneath the horizontal pole and tuck the loose end under the wrapping.
2. Wrap in a square fashion (behind the back pole, over the front pole, etc.) about three times around the poles.
3. Frap two or three times, pulling often to work the joint as tight as possible.
4. Tie two half hitches around the horizontal pole
5. Cinch the half hitches into a clove hitch, an additional clove hitch may be added if desired.

When the turns are taken around the vertical pole they should be inside the previous turns. The ones around the cross pole should be on the outside of the previous turns. This makes sure that the turns remain parallel and hence the maximum contact between the rope and wood is maintained.

Strength is improved if care is taken to lay the rope wraps and fraps in parallel with a minimum of crossing.

An alternative method is known as the Japanese square lashing. The Japanese square lashing is similar to the standard square lashing in appearance, but in fact is much faster and easier to use. One drawback to consider is that it is difficult to estimate how much rope is needed, which can lead to needlessly long working ends.

1. Begin by placing the middle of the rope under the bottom pole
2. Lay both ends over the top pole, and cross under the bottom pole. Do this about three times. Take care to keep the wrappings as tight as possible.
3. After the last wrap, cross the ropes again over the bottom pole and frap around the wrappings. Do this enough times (at least 3) to finish with a square knot.

A properly executed lashing is very strong and will last as long as the twine or rope maintains its integrity. A lashing stick can be used to safely tighten the joint.

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Lashing

       A lashing is an arrangement of rope used to secure two or more items together in a somewhat rigid manner. Lashings are most commonly applied to timber poles, and are commonly associated with the scouting movement and with sailors.

This word usage derives from using whipcord to tie things together.

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Rope Coiling

    In order to protect a rope from damage and to aid in transporting it, you need to be able to coil a rope properly. This can be done in a number of ways as shown. When coiling let the rope fall into natural loops. In order for this to happen it will be necessary to flick and turn the rope. Once completed the coil is secured by a whipping type knot or via a loop knot.

     When coiling a heavy hawser it is best to coil it in large loops on the ground. Passing the hawser through your legs will aid this process and prevent tangling. The coil is secured using short sisal ties.

Method 3

Method 1

Method 2

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Ropes

75mm

    Ropes come in many types and sizes and to simplify matters you should use the following as a guide.

• 75mm rope (25 mm diameter) or larger, certainly no smaller than 75mm, should be used  whenever it is intended to hold weight such as in the case of a monkey bridge – foot and hand rails, aerial runways, and commando rope bridges.

50 mm

• 50 mm rope (16 mm diameter) should be used for ‘reeving’ up pulleysand anchors and for rope ladders.

25mm

• 25mm rope (8mm diametere) should be used for guy ropes in general, on large structures this size would need to be increased.

 

       Rope lenghts will vary according to how they are purchased, 25 metre lenghts will normally cover most projects as the distance between sheer legs or rope bridges should not exceed 15 metres to avoid ‘flipover’. Flipover occurs when the slack in the rope is such that it acts much like a skipping rope, when pressure is applied to the middle of the rope it becomes unstable and sways resulting in throwing off the ‘rope crosser’ or entangling them in the ropes, which is extremely dangerous. As most of the ropes used in pioneering structures require an element of friction to provide maximum efficiency, hawser laid ropes of natural fibre such as sisal or hemp are preferred, but they are more expensive and need care and attention as the fibres can rot and deteriorate if not dried carefully. Synthetic ropes are cheap but require extra care particularly when fixing the ropes to trees and poles. The ropes are generally smoother than hemp or sisal ropes and the knots have a tendency to slip under pressure. To ensure safety and prevent slippage you should secure all knots with extra hitches.

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Lashings

   

  Experience would suggest that the best lashing to use in the construction of the projects is not the traditional square lashing but rather the Norwegian lashing which is easier and quicker to tie than the traditional lashing. With the Norwegian lashing the sisal or lashing rope is halved and you are constantly pulling the strain against yourself which makes it easy to tighten and manage the construction of the lashing plus you finish it off with a reef knot or granny knot which ever is easiest. Once you master the technique it can be adapted to the other lashings – Tripod, Diagonal, Sheer.

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